Jet Set Go

Part 1 – Qatar and FIFA World Cup Quarter Final: Argentina vs Netherlands

We are now in the last week of June 2024 and soccer enthusiasts like my Argentinian husband will find themselves in the thick of exciting games such as the UEFA Euro 2024 and the Copa America 2024. Many would have bought tickets to watch the matches in person to support their teams at stadiums in Germany or the United States respectively. Some would have also bought or considering doing so for the July-August Summer Olympics 2024 games in France, and/or planning to do the same for the FIFA World Cup 2026 in the United States. Thus, it is timely for me to share my experience attending the FIFA World Cup 2022 games in Qatar with my husband in December 2022. I hope that through this share, you may pick up some tips and useful ideas to help you make decisions in your plans and considerations to attend soccer matches live at stadiums.

As the experience was extensive and there is just too much to share all at once, I am posting the experience in the following three installments:
Part 1 – Qatar and FIFA World Cup Quarter-Final: Argentina vs Netherlands
Part 2 – Qatar and FIFA World Cup Semi-Final: Argentina vs Croatia
Part 3 – Dubai and FIFA World Cup Final: Argentina vs France

As you may have noted, my husband and I only watched matches at the stadium (all the matches we attended were at Lusail Stadium) involving the Argentinian team and we only started from the quarter-final match. We explored different places in Qatar before the quarter and semi-final matches, but hopped over to explore neighboring Dubai prior to the final. At the end of each part that I post, I include a list of tips based on what I have learned from the experience.

This post, Part 1, comprises the following content:
• The Challenge in Getting Tickets
• The Thrilling Scramble in Making the Last-minute Trip
• Accommodation and Getting Around Qatar
• Enjoying Qatar’s Hospitality the Day Before the Quarter-Final Match
• The Quarter-final Game: Argentina vs Netherlands
• Quarter-final Outcomes

The Challenge in Getting Tickets
Although we submitted our names to be balloted for tickets purchased directly from FIFA for the World Cup 2022 tournament, we were not successful in both rounds of balloting. Tickets were allocated based on the quota for each country and the team(s) we were following. We even signed up for tickets of higher category/price but were not picked because we only wanted tickets to watch the Argentinian team matches which happened to be one of the most (if not THE most) sought-after tickets, at least in the United States where we were (and still are today) and in Argentina. We were utterly disappointed and gave up at first. Our close friends, an Argentinian couple, paid an agency over USD $35,000 to secure a VIP package covering matches at the Group stage (three games) with luxury accommodations, ground and air transportation, VIP seats at the stadium(s), and some pre/post-match party treats. It was indeed the only way to guarantee securing those tickets.

Upon failing to secure the tickets for the initial rounds, due to a family emergency, I flew to Singapore to be with my family without my husband up till the end of the period covering the Round of 16 of the FIFA World Cup in Qatar. On my last day in Singapore, knowing that Argentina made it through to the quarter-final, I wanted so badly to get tickets to let my beloved Argentinian husband watch the game. It dawned on me that I might just get my hands on resold tickets at this point. Using Google, I searched for tickets and was absolutely delighted to find them at just over USD $600 per ticket (before taxes and fees) on StubHub, a third-party ticket-selling website. At that time, I was already on my way to the airport to return to our home in Henderson (a suburban city just outside Las Vegas), Nevada. Via WhatsApp, I told my husband the good news and he excitedly gave me the go-ahead to purchase the tickets.

The Thrilling Scramble in Making the Last Minute Trip
While waiting to board the plane at Changi International Airport in Singapore, I bought the match tickets and scrambled to get flight tickets to Qatar too because to be there on time to watch Argentina’s quarter-final game (taking into consideration possible flight delays), we must catch a flight from Las Vegas the day after my arrival home. As a holder of a United Airlines’ affiliated credit card and premier member of the MileagePlus program, I was able to use accumulated miles to get one-way tickets for both of us on a flight that would depart just 15 hours after my arrival in Las Vegas. I went for it knowing that it would require a mad rush in packing and sacrificing the night’s sleep at home. My flight arrived at LAS airport after 3 pm on December 5 and our flight to Doha, Qatar would depart at 6 am on December 6.

While rushing to pack, we also made last minute reservation for our hotel stay in Qatar because we learned that we had to apply for the Hayya card which was a form of visa and entry permit specifically for visiting Qatar during the World Cup 2022 period, and we could only complete the application form once we have our accommodation details to provide. As expected, hotel prices were ridiculously high by then. Even poorly rated basic rooms were going at around USD $350 – $500 a night. Better rooms were priced at around USD $700 to over $1000 per night. We decided to settle for a room in a trailer/caravan at a dedicated fan village called the Fan Village Caravan City in Doha. Priced at about USD $223 per night including taxes and fees, the room was air-conditioned and came with a King bed, an oversized sofa, a private bathroom, and a refrigerator. We thought that was plenty under the circumstances.

After careful consideration, we decided to reserve the room for seven nights, meaning our stay would cover both the quarter and semi-final rounds. Although we were not 100% sure that Argentina would make it through to the semi-finals, we took our chances because we knew that if they did, we would do whatever it took to get our hands on the tickets too. If they did not, we could always try to cancel and get refunds for the remaining days or just spend the remaining days sightseeing in Qatar.

Having booked our accommodation, we quickly submitted the online application by providing all the required documents and information. The approval took a while but we took our chances and proceeded to make our way to Qatar while waiting for the approval to come through although we knew that we would not be allowed entry until we could show the Hayya card.

Knowing that we would also need to show flight tickets to return home to the United States, we bought fully refundable tickets on Egypt Air and JetBlue Airways (code-share flights) from Expedia. We did this to allow ourselves the flexibility of staying longer should Argentina make it to the final or to fly home early should they not get past the quarter-final round.

The total flight duration to Doha from Las Vegas was 23 hours 35 minutes with stops in Denver and Toronto. Upon landing at Hamad International Airport in Doha, Qatar after 4 pm on December 7, we immediately turned on our phones and signed into the airport wifi to check if our Hayya Card application was approved. Although it was approved, we still had to take a few steps to make a fee payment and complete the card set-up on our devices. Thankfully, the beautiful airport was huge and we managed to get everything done just steps away from arriving at the immigration counter to get cleared for entry by showing the Hayya application on our phones. Yes, we let out a huge sigh of relief!

Accommodation and Getting Around Qatar
Arrival in Qatar on December 7 meant that we could spend at least the whole of the following day exploring and getting oriented to our accommodation and other key areas. The quarter-final match between Netherlands and Argentina would take place on the evening of December 9.

We took a taxi from Hamad International Airport and arrived at the Fan Village Caravan City in the late evening. The check-in area was a sufficiently-equipped large make-shift tent. Once checked in, there were buggies outside the tent constantly coming and going to take guests to and from their trailers/caravans.

The village was large. There was an open ground close to the registration tent where there were food and drink kiosks and tents, outdoor dining tables and benches, a mega broadcasting screen, and large beanbags. It was an area meant for guests to hang out in to watch games that they did not buy tickets for. It looked really cool and there was a grocery store close by too. However, when we visited the area for dinner that night thinking that we would be soaking in a vibrant soccer fan atmosphere, we were disappointed to find the place almost deserted. Other than staff managing the eateries, there were very few visitors other than us. We concluded that fans were not there because there was no match being played that night for them to watch. As such, most were either out enjoying the city or turned in early. We also learned a few days later that strong winds blew frequently and this made having dinner outdoors (the only option there) quite challenging. That said, we did see a lively atmosphere with many visitors in the area on two evenings when we were leaving and arriving home from matches at the stadium.

Our caravan looked spartan on the outside but quite spacious, clean, and comfortable on the inside. The air-conditioner worked well, the King bed provided good sleep, and there was a sofa set huge enough for up to two other people to sleep on. Sadly, we only found the refrigerator on our fourth night at the caravan because it was incorporated as a compartment below the table by the sofa. I only found it by chance while trying to find something in the room and opened the compartment to find that it was a refrigerator. We bought a USD $10 electric kettle along with some groceries from the grocery store in the village to make ourselves light breakfasts and snacks. My only gripe was that the attached private bathroom was very small and only two flimsy towels were provided. The water pressure from the shower was weak too. Overall, considering the prices of accommodation elsewhere, it was still good value for money for us.

We were happy to learn that the fee we paid for our Hayya cards was well worth it as the card accorded us free public transportation to get around everywhere on the metro and public buses throughout the duration of our stay. The public transport system was very clean, comfortable, and efficient too. Of course, on match days, the metro and metro stations got super crowded. This could not be avoided although the metro arrived at an interval of about one minute. However, the extremely high excitement level of supporting a beloved team that was playing for the most coveted of global victories in soccer/football, made any inconvenience fleeting and trivial.

On match days, everyone in the packed metros and metro stations would be chanting and singing team anthems in unison while proudly wearing team jerseys and accessories. The atmosphere on match days was utterly exhilarating. That said, we were so glad that alcohol was banned in most places in Qatar. Looking at the high level of excitement, it was easy to see that it would not take much for violence to erupt should there be intoxicated people in the crowd. We also felt safe everywhere because we could see security personnel all around us. They were all firm yet friendly and not intrusive or overbearing.

It was so easy to find our way to all the recommended places of interest. We could reach all of them by taking the metro. From our fan village, a complimentary shuttle bus was available at regular intervals to the nearest metro station less than a five-minute ride away. At all metro stations, there were clear maps and directions in addition to so many uniformed guides stationed inside and outside to answer all your questions. The Qatar government and FIFA organizers seemed to have everything well thought out. Some destinations require a change of train at specific stations but the system was very easy to follow. Again, there were guides everywhere around you to help. The metro trains were very clean and comfortable. Everyone was helpful and respectful.

Enjoying Qatar’s Hospitality the Day Before the Quarter-Final Match

We were told that the first place that we should visit was the Souq Waqif (Waqif Market) in the center of Doha, so we headed there in the late morning the day after our arrival. At first, we found the place rather quiet with not too many people there. We found great opportunities to snap pictures as there was no crowd. There were delightful spices, herbs, tea leaves and flowers, jewelry, textiles, clothes, and souvenir items at the market. The stall vendors were all very friendly and helpful as opposed to being pushy. It was not until a little past noon when the crowd started building at the souq.

We learned later that locals and visitors started the day late there and some attractions were even not open until 3 pm. When the crowd built up, the atmosphere at the souq changed totally. The World Cup vibe and energy could distinctly be felt. We enjoyed lunch at an Argentinian-themed restaurant there called La Boca. Both local and Argentinian dishes were on the fully halal (permissible in Islam) menu. Naturally, patrons at the restaurant were either Argentinians or fans of the Argentinian team. We had a good conversation with an Indian fan there who was practically a walking encyclopedia of the team.

Later, while exploring the souq further, we were approached by a French journalist from Paris who interviewed my husband and a Brazilian fan who was there too on camera. They were asked questions about their countries’ famous soccer rivalry in a light-hearted manner. It was a pleasant surprise and my husband enjoyed it!

We rested for a few hours back at our caravan in the afternoon before going out again in the early evening to visit one of the sites that were specifically set up for FIFA World Cup international visitors. That evening, we visited the Doha Festival @ The Corniche, specifically the Global Street Festival in the southern part of the festival ground. The other two sections were the Fan Festival in the central area and the Future Experience in the north.

We were blown away by the sights and sounds of festivities and the Global Street Festival. Amazing colorful displays were shone from the surrounding buildings, flags of participating countries were flown along the streets, there were delightful upbeat street cultural performances from various countries, and magnificent artful structures formed eye-catching exhibits. Food and beverage kiosks dotted the festival ground as well.

I made a mental note of the fact that there were barely any White European visitors seen at the festival. Most fans from Western countries, especially White Europeans, decided to boycott the host country, Qatar due to reported human rights violation issues. I personally felt that Western discrimination was at play because human rights violations occur in most, if not all previous FIFA World Cup host countries, and yet Western countries chose to highlight only those purportedly committed in a Middle Eastern/Muslim-majority country.

My other disappointment was that only Western-style fast food items were sold at the various food kiosks at the festival. I would have preferred local or international street food to be the main offerings in line with the multicultural theme. Despite my minor disappointments, I enjoyed myself immensely. We spent about three hours at the festival which culminated in a spectacular synchronized display of colorful musical fountains, fireworks, and drone formations.

The Quarter-Final Game: Argentina vs Netherlands

The day finally came. On December 9, we headed out early to Lusail Stadium to try to avoid what we anticipated to be a huge crowd and a tight squeeze in the metro train and at train stations. My husband wore the Argentinian flag “ghutra” (Arabic headdress for men) that he bought at Souq Waqif, held in place by the “iqal” (rope-like bond to secure the ghutra). Of course, we both wore the Argentinian soccer team jersey bearing Lionel Messi’s number 10. I also painted mini Argentinian flags on my cheeks but did not do a very good job of it. As the weather got rather chilly at night in Qatar, I wore a light Argentinian soccer jacket over the jersey.

We arrived at the stadium a little over two hours before the match was scheduled to start. It was extremely exciting to be at the stadium ground. There were already many fans there although we knew that most would be arriving from about an hour after we did. The stadium looked magnificent. Security was really tight. I adhered to the rule of only bringing a small pouch with me, but even then, I was not allowed to bring in a plastic hair comb I had in the pouch and had to get rid of it.

World Cup Soccer 2022 theme songs were constantly played at the stadium keeping spectators’ spirits high. It was the first time I got to see my favorite Argentinian players on the field in person within 30 to 40 meters from where my husband and I were sitting. I was ecstatic! They were engaging in light practice and I thought that it was at least partially to entertain the fans. Lionel Messi and the goalkeeper, Emiliano “Dibu” Matinez, were my top two favorites. My other favorites were Angel Di Maria and Rodrigo De Paul. On the other hand, I did not know any of the Dutch players.

About 30 minutes before the game started, the stadium was almost full. Looking around, it was apparent that over 90% of spectators were fans of the Argentinian team. The Netherlands’ supporters filled only a small section of the stadium. I was aware that the rest of their fans were boycotting the event in Qatar and thought that their decision could be detrimental to their team’s spirit for such an important game.

There was a brilliant display of pyrotechnics before the singing of the national anthem for both teams and the start of the exciting match. Resounding chants of support from the Argentinian team fans rang through the stadium over the duration of the game. Being seated among Arab fans of the Argentinian team who were hilarious and uplifting with their antics in picking up Argentinian Spanish cheer and curse words was incredibly heartwarming too. This somewhat provided some relief from the tense moments throughout the match between the two teams on the field that seemed to originate outside of the game.

I learned later that the Argentinian team was deeply offended and harbored anger towards the Dutch team due to disparaging comments about the Argentinian team expressed by the Dutch, especially by their head coach, Louis van Gaal before the game and widely circulated by the media. The head coach had also, allegedly, discriminated against an Argentinian player in a Dutch soccer club when he was the club’s coach causing the player to not be able to fully showcase his talents and affecting his career. The harbored ill feelings between the teams translated into aggressive play throughout the game resulting in the referee issuing a total of 18 yellow cards to 15 players, including Lionel Messi. One of the cards was issued to a coaching member of the Dutch team and another one to Argentina’s manager/head coach. One Dutch player, Denzel Dumfries, was issued two yellow cards resulting in a red one. Clashes between the teams interrupted the game frequently.

Quarter-Final Outcomes
Upon hitting the 34th minute, Argentina’s first goal was scored by Nahuel Molina with a magical pass from Messi through the legs of quite a few Dutch players. Then, a little past the 72nd minute (in the second half of the game), Messi scored from an awarded penalty kick due to a foul on Marcos Acuna just barely within the penalty box.

However, about 10 minutes later, Wout Weghorst scored the first goal for the Dutch. The second half was extended by 10 minutes of stoppage time but the referee did not stop the game when 10 minutes was up providing the Dutch team with the opportunity to score the equalizer in the 11th minute again by Weghorst. Then, when 30 minutes of extra time (additional playing time after full time, played in two segments of 15 minutes to allow the teams to switch sides on the field) failed to produce additional goals from either side, the outcome of the game had to be determined by penalty kicks.

It was nerve-wracking just to watch each assigned player take the kick, so I could only imagine the mental pressure on the players and goalkeepers. Each team took five shots at the goal. Two from the Dutch team were saved by Martinez, the Argentine goalkeeper and one from the Argentine team missed the goal. The Argentinian team thus won the game with a score of 4-3 on penalty kicks. The exuberance of Argentine fans, us included, was indescribable!

The match was indeed mentally and spiritually exhausting but so unforgettable. On another note, we had learned earlier that Croatia had beaten Brazil in another quarter-final match that night, also by penalty kicks with a score of 4-2. This meant that Argentina would be facing Croatia in the semi-finals.

Conclusion
I end my post here for Part 1 of my sharing on the exhilarating experience of watching FIFA World Cup in person for the first time. We almost gave up on the opportunity of a lifetime initially but found ways to overcome the obstacles at the very last minute. Everything about the trip and the experience was thrilling and unforgettable right from the start. In my next post, Part 2, I will share how the thrills continued when we decided to stay in Qatar to watch the semi-final match between Argentina and Croatia.

Lessons Learned and Tips:

1. If you are not exactly “swimming in money”, plan ahead and start saving early because even the cheapest match tickets and accommodations tend to be very expensive
2. If you are a member of an airline mileage program, start accumulating miles way ahead too as it may save you at least some money on flights
3. Do your best to secure match tickets that are sold directly by the organizer as they are always way cheaper
4. Source for tickets from third-party sellers via websites such as StubHub, Vivid Seats, Seat Geek, and Ticketmaster if you cannot get tickets from the organizer
5. Tickets will get more expensive at each stage of the games but prices may go down when tickets are unsold hours or minutes before a match. So, you may want to consider waiting to buy from third parties at the very last minute, but bear in mind that you will be risking not getting tickets at all should the tickets get sold out or only the most expensive categories (e.g. VIP tickets) are still available
6. If you do not want to spend an exorbitant amount on accommodation, be ready and willing to rough it out a little because while you are engrossed in the spirit of the event, you will not be too bothered by minor discomforts
7. Consider all possible scenarios in making flight and accommodation reservations and incorporate flexibilities and/or allow for changes wherever possible
8. Be open-minded when attending the games hosted by a country that you are not familiar with. The hosts will do their best to keep you safe, comfortable, and well- entertained but you must do your part to respect the host country’s laws, customs, and way of life as well as the organizer’s rules and regulations. Be ready to appreciate and even learn from people of different cultures.